FW 2013 Men: Milan & Paris

I've been quite busy getting used to my other duties regarding university so couldn't post Milan first and Paris later. Plus, there are other thing I want to post about, some shoes and colours that are obsessing me, some other designers, some other trends, now all the Haute Couture shows are taking place, Dior has been BREATHTAKING! I'll talk about it in another post.

Butttt, I HAVE FINALLY FINISHED CHOOSING MY FAVOURITE PICTURES OF PRETTY MUCH EVERY FASHION SHOW AND PUT THEM TOGETHER TO SHOW WHAT DESIGNER HAS TO OFFER MEN FOR THE FALL WINTER 2013.

ANYWAYS, I'M NOW POSTING THE PICTURES AND DESCRIBING THE COLLECTIONS FROM MY HUMBLE POINT OF VIEW.

D SQUARED2. Quite a peculiar show, there was a band playing changing the song quite rapidly and giving the show different moods. All men on the catwalk were gorgeous looking black men who at the end of the show went out in white pyjamas and took their tops off. SEXY! In terms of clothing, very italianish, shiny silky suits, some hints of tartan here and there and oversized colourful hats. Rolled up jeans and trousers.

   

Gucci. Skinny and pretty tight trousers for Gucci, leather trousers, colourful jumpers and a strong presence of light blue on the catwalk which is repeated in other major collections too. Prince of wales suits opened the show.

Prada. One of my favourites by far due to my fascination for vintagy looking collections. I see a pretty strong influence from the 60s here. Not only the styling (that sort of long bob hair), but the colours (yellow, bright light blue, yellow, red), the ankle length trousers, the leather 3/4 coats and jackets, etc. I love this one.

Missoni. Well, there isn't much to analise here, Missoni is brown and knit, of course. Interesting hints of more colder colours in some jumpers. Weird mood on the catwalk due to the disappearance of CEO Vittorio Missoni. 

Moschino. Similar sense of italian luxury and that "showing it all off" attitude as in D Squared2. A lot of silky suits, overloaded tartan, fur on 3/4 coats and some interesting leather jackets, like the one with the peace sign.  

Versace. I'm not a huge fan of Versace, but its style is unique. Of course, loads going on, loads of patterns, expanded prints (zebra, dogtooth), wide and short 90s looking ties, oversized coats, entirely leathery garments, printed denim. Very 90s. Another presence of light blue here. ME LIKE IT!

Bottega Veneta. Double-breasted jackets, plain colour palette and pretty much no prints on the catwalk. Grey, black, pale pink and khaki main colours. Interesting fabrics (see that Suit in a sort of waxy leather) Bottega Veneta are known for their excellent use of leather.  

Burberry Prorsum. Skinny trousers, military coats, leopard print. Burberry was probably the brand offering leopard print on the catwalk. Of course their signature coats and trenches always present, a bit of a youth twist I've noticed. REAL NICE. Worth looking at the whole collection really. Classic but stylish. 

Calvin Klein Men. Not much to say here. Plain futuristic looking lines in the collection, CK is simplicity and when it comes to men I won't think it will go further than with womenswear. I like the first 3 tops I put on the picture. 

Costume National Homme. This is looking forward in fashion. I like this brand a lot although it's not my style at all. Only three colours on the catwalk (Black, white and electric blue) and with just that the collection was fun and diverse. Ankle length trousers, a lot of leather (trousers and jackets), floppy looking hats, interesting knitwear and some cool furry/velvety garment. J'adore!

Dolce & Gabbana. We have seen in the last collections by these two amazing dudes, the MASSIVE influence of italian culture throughout the catwalk EVERY TIME. 20s and 30s looking tailored three piece outfit (chaplin style trousers, waistcoat and coat). Religious and floral prints on oversized tops.

Emporio Armani. For sexy men I'd say this is made. A wide range of colours in the palette but electric blue and mustard had the strongest presence, scuba diving looking trousers in some outfits, many many leather jackets and coats. It is also worth looking at the whole collection since it is huge and involves loads.

Ermenegildo Zegna. I would love to touch every single piece of clothing from this collection. It is simple in terms of designing, but the quality of the fabrics and the technology they use is breathtaking. Fur, leather, velvet, wools, a bit of everything in a pretty plain colour palette (black, grey and dark green).

Salvatore Ferragamo. LAYERS LAYERS AND MORE LAYERS. AMAZING collection this, specially for those who like simple but elaborated designing. Great use of leather in complex looking garments, oversized capes, leather trousers, waxy knitwear and ankle length trousers. Colours: Green, Navy and Black

Giorgio Armani. Two things wowed me about this collection. The knitwear and the gorgeous croco leather jackets. But there is a LOT here to talk about, not great in terms of designing, but Armani is not much about that but the tailoring and the luxury the brand presents. There is fur and a lot of think heavy velvet garments.

KENZO. This is among my favourite ones. The graphic prints in simple futuristic designs are gorgeous. A different take on camouflage prints. The combination of light blue, black and beige YES PLEASE, more of that. That first jacket is so Balenciaga. I want my bf to wear this.

This was just Milan! Paris below...

Anne Demeulemeester. Two words: Black and White. The rest, very Antwerp designing. Some medieval influence on the 3/4 shirts and sleeveless coats. Floor length robes (which I bet are very warm but not comfy). Maybe a bit of victorian horse riding or something like it? 

Comme des Garçons. I like this is comparison to other unwearable collection. I have to admit is as always unique not only in terms of design but the use of colour. Some pastels in some great prints cutting with the plain black and grey. 80% of the trousers were pretty much shorts, and a lot of layering, as we are used to seeing by them. Interesting styling, all long haired male.

Dior Homme. This reminds of futuristic films about galaxies and all that. Very very science fiction.  Sharp cuts and very tights garments. Black, white, navy and grey, just those colours on the catwalk. Interesting collection. Different from the rest I'd say.

John Galliano. He is finally back, and we're glad he's back cause the collection was AMAZING. I loved every single outfit. The supersize hats on very very skinny (not to say child looking) men. The checkered print predominantly black (see picture 3) is my favourite thing, neon shoes cutting the sober colours of the outfit give the perfect final touch. Some interesting prints and retro shaped trousers with some modern jackets. Very well done Mousier Galliano. 

Givenchy. Hmm, what to say about this. It didn't tickle my pickle really. The jackets and coats are pretty nice, but it bored me a bit. I like what Tisci does for womenswear, but I didn't like this very much. I do like the pointy shoes if I have to pick something from the collection.
Colours: white, greys, blacks, and hints of red

Hermés. Functional if to define it in one word. Amongst the normal winter colours, there is yellow and bright pink adding some fun to the collection. Skinny trousers, turtle neck knits and tops

Issey Miyake. This is probably the craziest one I've seen. Very daring collection. Gold, silver leather, very bright colours (orange, red, yellow, lime), a variety of raincoats and as to the tailoring below the knee trousers in different colours and shapes. A lot going on in every outfit.

Louis Vuitton. This is divine. Very plain colours and every now and then there is an orange leather jacket or oriental and colourful prints. Oversized coats. A lot of grey and burgundy together (and it works very well). Not very exciting knitwear apart from the jumper with a crazy kitten there! Bow ties in the formal outfits.

Lanvin. WOW to those wax leather garments. The collection was overall simple and traditional. There were baggy and very skinny trousers, oversized tailored coats wore with trainers, see through chiffon shirts and turtleneck knitwear.

Maison Martin Margiela. Oh yeah, gimme more of this more often! I am fascinated by everything in this collection, from the garments, the textures, the styling, the models... Rough looking dudes wore loads of fur in coats, jackets and scarves, leather in heavy garments and in layers and knits presented like patchwork. Burgundy, khaki and black dominating the catwalk.

Raf Simons. GREAT colours: green, burgundy, blue, red, and hints of other bright colours cutting with the sobriety of black outfits with contrasting cuffs. Retro patterns on knitwear, double-breasted suits with a sort of blocking bar at the top. Very different to what he creates for Dior. 

Saint Laurent. I don't like this very much, but there is loads to analyse in it. Very groungy rock n rolly style. Super skinny tight trousers, jeans with destroyed knees, checks, leather, red and black, some animal prints. I could imagine Kurt Cobain wearing a lot of this. 90s american grounge rock I'd say influenced this collection.

Valentino. I think I sent every picture from this show to my bf telling him he should starting wearing this kind of clothes more often. Very charming, sophisticated, incredible tailored collection. A lot of checks in every colour and shape, some prince of wales, some scottish looking tartan. Leather combined with wool in coats, furry coats (you can pretty much see the animal there). My favourite pice: that leather suit jacket on the bottom left.
Interesting fact: Men were wearing the characteristic Valentino clutches. 

Well, this is all for now. I shall post tomorrow something more commercial.

SALUD!